2.  If you've ignored tip #1, trying it again won't change the outcome; you'll just be oilier (we know,
     we've been there, done it...).

3.  A nifty device for doing your timing is a clear plastic plug that fits into the timing hole.  Using this
     will prevent oil from getting in your face and eyes while checking the timing.  However, remove
     it before riding away.  Bad things will happen (imagine, if you will, your neighbor's cat in the line
     of fire as your neat and nifty gizmo plug impales itself into the cat.  This has a tendency to really
     piss off your neighbors.  On the other hand, it gets rid of the cat...).

4.  When changing oil, always check the metalic end of the plug for shavings and debris.  There will
      be some; however, if there's a lot, it could indicate internal problems.  Have it checked out.

5.   If your bike is equipped with an earlier model with sidebags (the newer ones have the lids
      attached to the bag), chances are you've already lost your lid at least once.  To prevent this,
      try either or both of these:  drill a small hole in the front of the lip on the bag where the lid hooks
      hooks to the bag.  With the lid installed, place a cotter pin through the hole.  This will prevent
      the lid from flying off.  Another method is to drill holes (2) in both the lid and bag and attach
      them with cords.  This will also prevent the lids from flying off.

6.   Anyone who has had a bike equipped with a windshield knows that over time, it becomes
      marred and pitted.  They also know that its difficult to see through during a driving rain.  One
      simple aid is, after cleaning the windshield with your favorite cleaner, to spray it with furniture
      wax.  This seals the tiny pits, makes the windshield look like new, and... causes the rain the
      blow right off.

7.   When changing your transmission plug, check to insure that a spacer is on the drain plug.
      Without the spacer, its very easy to damage the plug.   Once damaged, you'll need to get an
      oversized plug and installation can be interesting.   Damage normally occurs from over
      tightening of the plug.

8.   When changing your plugs, don't install new ones directly from the box; check and adjust the
      gaps accordingly.  I would also recommend putting anti-seize on the plugs before installing.
      Don't over tighten the plugs; damage to the engine could occur.

9.   When replacing brake oil, make sure you're using the right type.   Dot 5 is used in most Harleys
      but most cars and trucks use Dot 3.  An easy and common error is to use whats available. 
      Not a good idea.  An even worse idea is to mix the two; creates great glue but lousy lubricant.
      Lastly, whenever you replace or add fluid, bleed the brakes.  I'll include procedures in some
      future article.

10. Most motorcycles come equipped with a 55 watt low beam and a 60 watt high beam.   I
      strongly recommend changing to a higher wattage.   Competition accessories carries two that
      I've used over the past 14 years.  One is a 90/100 (low/high) and the other, my current choice,
      is a 90/130.  Remember, automobiles put out about 110 watts in low and around 120 watts on
      high.  Caution:  don't ride with your high beams on with oncoming traffic.  130 watts coming
      from a single bulb can be blinding and result in an accident. 

11. If you're thinking about getting a Harley service manual, check out someone elses before
      you do.  At least for 1998, there are several errors in the FLT series.  For example (you'll
      enjoy this one), if you look at your owner's manual, it will tell you that the engine oil drain plug
      is at the left rear of the bike just behind the primary cover.   If you look at the service manual, it
      says its at the right rear (the arrow points to an oil pan bolt).  In fact, the drain plug is at the
      front of the oil pan, in the front.  Also, if you follow the manual's directions for adjusting the
      clutch, you'll be in for a surprise if you exactly follow the directions.  You see, the service
      manual tells you to squeeze the clutch several times to seat the rods.  The problem is that this
      step is performed before you tighten up the clutch.  Thus, with a loose clutch, its highly unlikely
      that you'll seat anything.  Lastly (for the examples anyway), the service manual states that the
      primary oil capacity is 32oz.  The problem, however, is that the picture shows where the fill
      line is and that takes almost 48oz.  Your local service tech will confirm this.